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BRUXELLES

Looking for a reason to go to Brussels? The list is long. The Grand'Place, the special ambiance of its brasseries, the chocolates, the Bruegel paintings (both the young and the old master) in the magnificent Fine Arts Museum, rather Contemporary Art, that the Bruxellois are so fond of, the week-end flea/antique market on the Place des Sablons….

So close to Paris and yet so culturally different. With travel time down to a little over one hour on the TGV and a trains leaving every hour why miss out on an opportunity to enjoy a few days away from home.
On arrival go straight to the Grand'Place, the most beautiful "Place" in the world, according to Victor Hugo, and after having walked up and down and all around looking up all the while to take in the lace-like stone work of its architecture, stop for a white or cherry beer or for…in anyone of the numerous establishments on the square (my favorite is Le Roi d'Espagne), on the terrace in the warmer months or by the windows, close to the central fireplace…..Deeee lightful!

Fine Dining

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Comme chez Soi
23, Place Rouppe
T: 32 2 512 29 21
Fermé Dimanche et Lundi

Two fabulous chefs, 3 star Michelin, are sharing the title of Best Chef in Belgium.

Comme chez Soi, Intimate yet elegant setting. This small but chic Brasserie was founded in 1926, with a 1900's décor that Pierre Wynants made famous the world over.
The ambiance is remarkable, and the Wynant mother and daughter team, absolutely charming.
In the Gault Millau guide to Europe, Henri Gault talks about dishes that for some 20 years have been so close to perfection that they could well be given a 20 out of 20.
Though our last diner there was very good, but was missing the sparkles that make such a difference (see the article in French with the complete details of all the menus).
The specialties include: Filets of sole, grey shrimp and Riesling mousseline, milk fed baby veal stew, fresh herb syrup and Indian-style roasted potatoes, shredded warm lobster with "petits gris" mushrooms….
Menus: 64, 109 and 140 Euros, A la Carte: 130-150 Euros

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Bruneau
73-75, avenue Broustin
1083 Ganhoren
T: 32 2 427 69 78
Fermé Mardi soir et Mercredi
Bruneau, the other very big name, may be more creative when it comes to decor than with regard to dishes. Haute-Couture……
Specialties include: Sea bass fondant, Surf and Turf, Malines Coucou breasts with truffles…….
Lunch: 45 Euros, Menu: 93 and 136 Euros, A la Carte: 130-150 Euros.

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Le Sea-Grill
47, rue Fossé aux Loups
T: 32 2 227 31 20
Fermé: Samedi midi et Dimanche

Henry Lemaire, famous Belgian gastronomist and author of a guide that I strongly recommend, gives the Sea Grill, two Michelin stars, same rating as the Radisson SAS restaurant.
Memorable fish and seafood specialties in a fantastic contemporary decor.
Lunch: 46 Euros, with accompanying wines 67 Euros
Menus: 70 Euros, with accompanying wines 94 Euros

 

   

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

Behind this leading trio are a number of contenders:
La Truffe Noire in Ixelles, l'Ecailler in the Royal Palace, Claude Dupont in Gaushoren, La Maison du Bœuf in the Hilton Hotel, and La Maison de Maître in the Conrad Hotel.

La Villa Lorraine, which reminds me of La Tour d'Argent in Paris, is set in a sumptuous 1900's villa with a terrace over the woods; majestic old world service, and classic cuisine which remembers having been one of Europe's best through the 60's and 70's. After a significant drop, it seems to be recovering well. (80-120 Euros). A magical setting.

The same applies to La Maison du Cygne, a sumptuous house on the Grand'Place that never reached as high a standing, never dropped too low and is now making fine progress.
Refined cuisine, perhaps a little too French. (Menu 68 Euros, A la Carte 4000)
Excellent value lunch menu 36 Euros (e-mail : lecygne@skynet.be)

My favorite : Two good typical Brussels bistrots around the magnificent Grand'Place.
Aux Armes de Bruxelles, large old Brasserie with class and a friendly atmosphere surrounded by all kinds of rather awful eating establishments. Traditional Brussels cuisine, fabulous beers, Z oysters, delicious waterzoï, moules-frites, eels in green sauce, beer Carbonade…..
Lunch: 22 Euros, A la Carte 40 to 60 Euros.

La Roue d'Or, more intimate yet lively; traditional dishes with that extra touch
(reservations a must) 40 to 60 Euros
GM rates this bistrot as the best; "a true Brussels-style bistrot….both refined and popular truly Belgian preparations….good work, authentic, extremely generous…." Just taste that Malines coucou Waterzoï. Tender, smooth, creamy, a little sweet even, exactly the way we like it."

Other treats: On the Place du Grand Sablon
At number 19, not to be missed, the extraordinary chocolates of Pierre Marcolini, the giant of Belgian chocolates.
And at number 21, the Pâtisserie Wittamer, that the Bruxellois consider to be one of the best in the city.

 
Hotels
   
 

The main hotels are rather modern.
The Radisson SAS, rue Fossé aux Loups, near the Grand'Place,
the Hilton, boulevard de Waterloo.
Conrad, 71, avenue Louise, a new hotel in a turn of the century building. Considered to be one of the best.

In the style of the beautiful 1900's palaces, we recommend:
The Astoria (Sofitel), 103, rue Royale, very beautiful, comfortable, majestic. Close to everything, but the neighbourhood is mediocre.
The Jolly Grand Sablon, confortable grand hotel has the good idea to be located just facing one of Brussels lovely square: Place du Grand Sablon, with its cafes and their terraces, and the superb food stores. On week-ends, antique market.
Also, the beautiful Plaza (118 Bld Adolphe Max).and the Métropole, place di Brouckère

Major hotels close to the Grand'Place.
The Amigo, in a refined old building.
Le Royal Windsor, 5, rue Duquesnoy, also quite refined
The modern Méridien, at the crossroads of Europe
And very nearby, a Novotel and an Ibis off the Grand'Place, less expensive and very well located.

In a class of its own, British charm at its best, The Stanhope, 9 rue du Commerce.

Chain hotels often have attractive prices depending on the season or through the Net. Moreover, it is possible to get very good week-end prices by reserving them directly.

 
Recommended reading for gourmets
 
 

The 2001 Henry Lemaire guide
For Belgium and Luxembourg
http://www.henry-lemaire.com

and the GaultMillau Europe Guide
(free supplement to the 2000 France Guide)

For general tourist information: www.brusselstourism.com