|
Spring 2004 |
 |
| The European Gourmet |
News, comments, chronicles |
| Home | Paris | Riviera | Province | Europe | Week End |
|
|
||||||
| |
|
| C'est nouveau | New concepts | Petit prix, grande saveur | Personnalité du mois | Les Plus Grands |
| C'EST NOUVEAU | |||
|
L'Astrance "One of the most exciting in the city, one that makes Paris roar with pleasure." - Gault Millau A success at a reasonable price? In a little street near the 'Jardins du Trocadero' Chef Pascal Barbot and Maitre D. Christophe Rohat, who formerly worked under 3-star Chef Alain Passard, delight us with their creative and flavorful cuisine. A window strangely decorated with wheat stalks, a small bar at the entrance, a dozen tables in the main dining room and 3 or 4 on the mezzanine. A short yet original menu where the courses are listed on the basis of the principal ingredient. Veal, Guinea Fowl, Salmon…. Absolutely exquisite! Delicate appetizers and dishes that delight the palate as well as the eyes and spirit. The lunch menu at 180F includes an appetizer, a main course and dessert. The dinner menu is 260F and if you order A la Carte, appetizers are 80F, main courses 125F and desserts 55F. Reservations well in advance is necessary. |
||
 |
|||
|
Since
1996, Arpege has been featured in Michelin's Red Guide with a 3-star
rating. Today its 3-star chef, Alain Passard, is causing a revolution! For those who don't eat meat or are distrustful of it, he creates all the flavours and tastes with vegetables and flowers. Located in Paris 7e, Arpege no longer has meat on its menu. "Beginning in spring 2001, my menu will be entirely and exclusively dedicated to vegetables" announced Alain Passard. It has been a long time since I myself have eaten meat," says the 44 years old chef. "I want to be the first 3-star chef to offer an all vegetable menu, to move fine dining in the direction of vegetables and flowers, to give my clients a healthier alternative." "Vegetables are so colourful, and flavourful. They go brilliantly together," he adds. "The choice of fish or shell fish should be restricted to what we suggest or to the catch of the day. "I'll serve bass only if I know it was caught that same night off the coast of Noirmoutier." If only it were possible to create gourmet meals at a reasonable price! |
||
|
|||
|
Les Grandes
Marches This mythical establishment, Place de la Bastille, was taken over by M. & Mme Jean-Paul Bucher, owners of the Brasseries Flo group and renovated by M. & Mme Christian de Porzampac who have done a magnificent job of creating a twenty-first century "brasserie". The menu has been created by the excellent Chef Christian Constant, formerly at the Crillon, who is on the premises every day at lunchtime to oversee its execution. He closes his own restaurant, le Violon d'Ingres, for lunch in order to give Les Grandes Marches his undivided attention. Located next to l'Opera Bastille, the restaurant is quite large, with floor space of 1,000 sq.m. and a seating capacity of 270 . It is spacious and bright and the interior design is memorable. There is also a large terrace. For a more intimate experience, you may prefer to sit upstairs in a bay window overlooking the "Place de la Bastille". The menu at 198F is an excellent choice. It features various dishes from the à la carte menu; appetizers from 45F to 100F, main dishes from 100F to 200F. Jellied crab and pot au feu of foie gras for starters, thick slices of calf's liver, stewed duck or filet of perch in sweet and sour sauce and a choice of desserts, all absolutely delicious. A creative meal for a very good price. Between 12 noon and 6:00 p.m., a simpler, less creative menu is offered for 138F. No choices available. The last time we were there, it was eggs mimosa and lamb chops. Open every day. |
||
|
|||
| The Caves of Taillevent have taken over l'Indochine and will make a little annex, possibly centered on wines, since it is located close to their excellent shop. We'll keep you posted for an 'opening' date. | |||
|
|||
|
Rue
Balzac. A great new place, a recent addition
to Michel Rostang's extensive repertory. Not the kind of place I had thought
of recommending, but several meals there have won me over. Very pleasant cuisine at an acceptable price - 250F. A peaceful yet cheerful atmosphere. A feeling of spaciousness. Beautiful people, many of whom are friends of French rock singer and part owner Johnny Halliday. Valet parking - a practical but very expensive service! |
||
|
|||
|
La Maison Blanche |
||
|
|||
|
Il Lotti Tuscan Chef Gualtiero Marchesi, considered to be one of the best Italian chefs has just opened Il Lotti in the beautiful little Palazzo Lotti. A beautiful deluxe restaurant with lots of space between tables and not too much noise. The cuisine is ambitious, the prices are high (500 F) and the quality will depend on this famous chef's ability to be everywhere and to do it all. Lunch menu 230 F Gastronomic menus: 560F and 740F. Very refine Italian cuisine, but in small portion, in a beautiful setting. |
||
| Michelin Red Guide 2001 | |||
| Famous Chef Marc
Veyrat from Savoie (the man with the black country hat), has just been awarded
3 stars in Michelin's Red Guide 2001 for his restaurant in Mégève
called "La ferme de mon père" six years after his supreme
consecration at the Auberge de l'Eridan (Veyrier-du-Lac). Alain Ducasse keeps his 3 stars in spite of his move to the Plaza Athénée but looses one of the three stars of the Louis XV in Monaco. Loss of the third star also for the Côte St. Jacques in Joigny (Yonne) where Jean-Michel Lorain and his father Michel have been officiating since 1986. Honouring Paris Palaces The 2001 red guide reserves a place of honor for Paris palaces given
that after the Plaza Athénée (Ducasse, 3 stars), two stars
were attributed to Philippe Legendre of the Hotel George V, formerly with
Taillevent, and Eric Fréchon at the Hotel Bristol, former right
hand of Christian Constant at the Hotel Crillon. |
|||
| News: Things are moving around du Fouquet's | |||
| The Lucien Barrière Group has acquired Hotelux which operates the Relais Carré d'Or Residence, the Café Mosaïc Restaurant and the boutiques in the shopping mall in the very heart of the prestigious Triangle d'Or (Golden Triangle) close to the restaurant Le Fouquet's Barrière. Major transformations will take place in the elegant Apartment Hotel. which today comprises some sixty apartments. The new operation will be a 4-star Luxury Hotel, a veritable showcase of the Groupe Lucien Barrière's great know-how. | |||
| News: There's something new with GaultMillau | |||
| Louis Ballande, head
of a Caledonian nickel operation and owner of Bordelais vintage wines, Prieuré
Lichine, now holds most of the share capital of Gault Millau, editor of
the gastronomic guides and magazine. A result of organizational restructuring,
his share represents 60% of the capital, Gallimard is in for 12% . Credit
Agricole and an individual investor have bowed out while CEO Bernard da
Costa and Philippe Faure jointly maintain their 28% share. The president
of the company and the editorial team remain unchanged. The magazine was created in 1969 and the gastronomic guide in 1972 by Henri Gault, who died in July 2000, and Christian Millau. As critics of the gastronomic scene, these two men reigned throughout the 70's and 80's, La Nouvelle Cuisine, and launched the big name chefs: Bocuse, Guérard, Manière or Senderens. At that time the only major guide was the Michelin and it did not offer any commentaries. Gault&Millau discovers and Michelin crowns. |
|||