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Visit the Château de Carcassonne and make sure to take the children.
One of my oldest and fondest childhood memories is visiting the Château
de Carcassone with my parents.
A and I still get rather emotional whenever I see its majestic silhouette
appearing in the distance as I approach.
Like a sign from forgotten ancestors, or a hand painted on a wall in a
prehistoric cave in Dordogne...
A visible trace of human existence throughout the time…
The fortified walls around the Citadelle built in the middle ages is the
most remarkable and the best preserved in Europe. It is not as extensive
as Avignon's but it is older and more interesting. Violet-le-Duc directed,
at the end of the 19th century a heavy controversial restoration work.
But it looks so much better than a ruin…
Part of the walls dates back to the Vth century, the time of the Visigoths,
the castle itself dates back to the XIIth century and the outside wall
to the middle of the XIIIth century when, on the Aude's left bank, St.
Louis founded the existing low town. Another part of the wall was built
at the end of the XIIIth century by Philippe Le Hardi. The magnificent
church of St. Nazaire, whose nave was started in 1096 and the chorus and
transept built between 1270 and 1320 are among the finest examples of
Gothic architecture.
Many good addresses available on site:
Within the walls of the old citadelle:
An address with lots of charm, L'Hôtel de la Cité, taken
over by the Orient-Express chain, comfortable and luxurious, with pool,
from 1000 F. Excellent restaurant - La Barbacanne, Dinner 300 - 500 F.
For a less expensive alternative, Le Donjon, rooms 400 - 600 F and the
restaurant, Dame Carcas with a menu for 85 F.
Don't miss out on the joys of a leisurely stroll through citadelle streets
at night fall when the tourists have left and the city gates have been
closed.
Outside the walls, if you like space and would prefer the country, Le
Domaine d'Auriac, a large, beautifully maintained home full of charm and
period furniture. Tel. 04 68 25 72 72, Fax. 04 68 47 35 54. Rooms from
800 F, meals 250 - 400 F and the Château de Floure, Tel. 04 68 79
11 29, Fax. 04 68 79 04 61. Rooms 500 - 700 F, meals 200 - 350 F. In both
cases the restaurant is good.
Also of note is Le Château d'Aragon, heritage building, 5 rooms,
2 apartments, 350 - 500 F. (Tel. 04 68 77 19 62, Fax. 04 68 77 19 62).
Le Château de Cavanac, beautiful XVIIth century home (Tel. 04 68
79 61 04, Fax. 04 68 79 79 67). Rooms 400 - 600 F.
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